Beijing Duck House is the kind of spot that rewards a phone call before you show up. Walk-ins can get the duck, but expect 40 to 45 minutes — and even then, the kitchen isn't always set up for it outside of pre-arranged orders. When they do prepare it, the bird comes broken down three or four ways, which puts it closer to the full traditional service than most Chinese restaurants in the city bother with. It runs more expensive than competitors, but regulars who've done the rounds — including spots like Mr. Jiu's in the Tenderloin — put it near the top of what SF has to offer, though not everyone agrees.

Boiling Beijing, about 15 minutes south in San Bruno, also requires advance ordering for the duck. It's a practical option for anyone staying in Millbrae or moving between the city and the Peninsula — the drive from SFO-area hotels is minimal.

Neither place does all-you-can-eat crab, which is a different category entirely — that search typically points toward the Richmond or the South Bay banquet houses. But for Peking duck specifically, both Beijing Duck House and Boiling Beijing are doing the work that most restaurants skip: actual preparation time, proper carving, multiple courses from one bird.

What this reflects is something straightforward about SF's Chinese dining scene: the most serious execution of specific regional dishes is often happening in rooms that don't advertise it loudly. You have to ask, you have to call ahead, and you have to know the name.