Every so often, a San Franciscan looks at flight prices, gasps, and thinks: What about the train?
We get it. The Amtrak Coast Starlight — running from the Bay Area up through Oregon to Seattle — sounds like a romantic alternative to the TSA gauntlet. And honestly? It kind of is. But let's talk about what you're actually signing up for before you book that ticket in a fit of spontaneity.
First, the economics. A coach seat on the Starlight runs about $120 one-way from Emeryville (you'll bus over from SF, because of course Amtrak doesn't actually depart from San Francisco). Meanwhile, Alaska Airlines will get you a round-trip basic fare to Seattle for around $157. Read that again. The train costs nearly as much one way as flying costs round trip. So if your motivation is saving money, the math doesn't math.
Then there's the time factor. The Starlight is scheduled for just under 24 hours. Scheduled. In practice, the train shares tracks with freight rail, and when freight schedules go sideways — which happens frequently — you could be sitting still for hours with no ETA. As one local put it, "It's a fun novelty to do once... but if you are on a tight schedule, I would not recommend the train."
That said, nearly everyone who's done it says the ride itself is genuinely beautiful. The Pacific coastline views are stunning, the café car is serviceable, and there's something meditative about watching Oregon roll by at ground level. One SF resident who rode it back from Portland called it "awesome" — with the caveat that you need to be "flexible with time."
Another Bay Area traveler recommended packing warm layers for the overnight stretch, plus an eye mask and ear plugs. Sleeping upright in a coach seat for a full night isn't exactly first class, and the sleeper cabins will set you back significantly more.
Here's The Dissent's take: America's passenger rail system is a case study in what happens when the government runs something without market discipline. Amtrak loses money on nearly every long-distance route, gets perpetually bailed out by Congress, and still can't offer competitive pricing or reliable scheduling against a budget airline. The Coast Starlight exists not because it's efficient, but because killing it would be politically inconvenient.
Should you ride it once? Absolutely — it's a genuinely cool experience. Should it be your go-to travel option? Not unless you've got 24 flexible hours, a good book, and a philosophical acceptance that freight trains will always come first on tracks your tax dollars subsidize.